The Velvet Glove - Winnipeg

The Velvet Glove

At The Fairmont Winnipeg
Reservations encouraged: (204) 985-6255

The Velvet Glove at the Fairmont in Winnipeg was a real treat for the B.A.G.z -- a special evening of dining that we will not soon forget. The Velvet Glove is the only four diamond (CAA-AAA) rated restaurant in Manitoba. One of us has a connection at the Fairmont and arranged for a very special menu and evening.  We were honored to be a "test run" for the chef's table that will be opening sometime this year.  We would highly recommend the experience of the chef's table. For us, it was truly a once-in-a-lifetime event.

The chef was aware of our group's likes and dislikes and tailored a menu specially for us.  The menu was accompanied by expert wine pairings, delivered by a refreshingly approachable, but decidedly knowledgable sommelier. Each course was brought out to us by the chef and his staff in a parade worthy of queens (as we all know we are).  We turned quite a few heads that evening, but the spectacle we created was incomparable to the food we enjoyed.

The first course was a delectable roasted red pepper soup with chives and a crème fraiche.  The sommelier admitted the flavours of the soup posed a challenge in pairing a wine, but she had thought of a Canadian Pinot Gris that she felt was the right match. She suggested that we taste the soup by itself and the wine by itself, then the two together.  Alone, the flavours of  soup and wine were pleasant, but paired together, the flavours rose to a new level for each.

The next course was a surprising watermelon salad with feta, arugula, shaved fennel, pickled blackberries and finished with a blackberry vinaigrette.  Truth be told, the dish was almost too pretty to eat, but we all found it to be the perfect palate cleanser to follow the soup. The lightness of the watermelon played off of the saltiness of the feta and tartness of the berries. Our sommelier paired an Australian Sauvignon Blanc with this salad, which further enhanced the flavours.

The third course was unfamiliar to all of us, but a classic of fine dining -- foie gras.  This version was gently pan-seared and prepared on a bed of roasted carmelized apples and grapes with an ice wine reduction. Our sommelier astonished all of us with the wine pairing on this dish. Even those who are not normally wine afficionadas enjoyed the exquisite sweetness of the Canadian late harvest ice wine, Optima. It, alone, has spoiled some of us forever.

Our fourth course was intended to be our sole main course, but the chef added an extra main course that followed this one. This dish, by itself made a spectacular main course, though -- a porcini mushroom risotto, perfectly cooked, with rice just tender and creamy, topped with duck confit, a poached duck egg, asparagus, and a parmesan crisp, all finished with a red wine reduction. Our sommelier again out did herself, pairing not one, but two wines.  We enjoyed a White Torrentos and a Red Ripasa.  Quipping on the theme of the night (duck confit, duck egg and the aforementioned goose foie gras), we dubbed the meal "Duck, duck, goose."

Our second main -- and surprise -- course was a stunning pan-roasted pheasant stuffed with goat cheese and fennel, served with fondant potatoes poached in duck fat, and mixed vegetable that included carrot, yellow beet and asparagus, all accompanied by a black truffle reduction. Our wine pairing of the first main course continued with this course, providing ample opportunity to explore the flavours of the wines with the intricate, but not overwhelming, flavours on the plates.  At the start of the meal, we had remarked how we could have eaten twice as much of the soup and salad, but by this time, we were all sure we couldn't eat anymore.  That is ...

... until dessert arrived. Who could refuse the perfect ending to the perfect meal? A delicate portion of dark chocolate torte with bitter berries, berry sorbet with raspberry coulis and white chocolate was too intriguing to resist.  Paired with the plate was a ruby port, which was a sturdy match to the chocolate, but takes a bit of getting used to if you've not had port much, or at all, before.

Without a doubt, we highly recommend getting yourself in to the chef's table at the Velvet Glove when they launch it officially.  Be aware that this is not your average dining experience, so expect far above average price.  For a very special treat, however, it is definitely worth it.  The chef has a precise hand in balancing complex flavours, never overwhelming with any single ingredient, yet always keeping a playfulness between the ingredients that is inspiring, to say the least.  The sommelier has a true talent in pairing wines with the meal.  Throughout the meal, we enjoyed so many complex flavours, but again, were never overwhelmed as each selection integrated with the meal seamlessly. Last, but not least, we must also mention that the wait staff is an excellent example of pure professionalism in dining service.

If you are looking for something extraordinary, The Velvet Glove will delight you, whether for a special romantic evening or an indulgent ladies' weekend away.  Surely, we B.A.G.z will not soon forget the experience.